FEMALE POWER 她力量

Five powerful female entrepreneurs discuss their work, interests and great passions.

五位充满“她”力量的女性创业者，分享了她们有关创业、爱好和热情的故事。

Amber Xiang
相海齐

Founder, The Beast
野兽派创始人

“There are a group of Chinese working women, who have a great worklife balance. They love their job, love trips, reading books, self development, lifestyle, a curiosity for the world.

有这样一群中国职业女性—她们能很好地平衡生活和工作。她们热爱自己的工作，热衷于旅行、阅读、自我发展、追求生活方式，对世界充满好奇。”

I read that The Beast was born on Weibo?

Yes. I saw a friend of mine post a picture of a cupcake and she said she bought it from someone on Weibo. So I opened an account and started posting photos of flower arrangements. The messages came flooding in! Even Boran Jing made an order. It's hard for some people to express themselves and say “I love you”, but it's easier with flowers. Love is a complex thing – it's not always about happiness. Flowers can express sadness too. A whole range of emotions, actually.

When did you leave your full-time job and start to concentrate on The Beast? And was that nerve-racking?

About six months after into working on The Beast I was on a business trip to Paris during the new year and I was getting calls from The Beast's office: all members of the customer service department had quit because Valentine's Day was approaching and there were so many orders that they couldn't take it. That's when I realised that this was something big that deserved my full attention.

What is most challenging aspect of running your business?

The challenge is finding the right employees. They have to be professional, have good taste and be curious about the world. But it's funny, when the interviewee seems to be glamorous with good taste, they seem to drop off over time. But when an interviewee doesn't have great style but truly believes in the brand, they end up being a much better fit.

Your store at XINTIANDI, Little B, is like a highend convenience store. Who shops there?

Just because women in the Chinese market are over 40, doesn't mean they're not still searching for something young and fun to buy. It's for the modern Chinese woman. There's no limitation to the age at which you could shop at Little B. Without being too general, there are a group of Chinese working women – very similar to that of the western working woman – who have a great work-life balance. They love their job, love trips, reading books, self development, lifestyle, a curiosity for the world. Housewives too! All Chinese women really. It's not about dividing the old and young generation by their age.

Have you had a female mentor?

Yes! Anita Lal, my friend in India. She's in her 60s and was a housewife, more than 10 years ago she started the Indian equivalent of The Beast called Good Earth. We discuss our businesses a lot. Hers is fantastic – all of the senior management are women, and all the people on the factory floor are men!

有报道说野兽派是在微博上诞生的，是这样吗？

对。我的一个朋友有天发了一张纸杯蛋糕的照片，说是从别人的微博上买到的。所以我就在微博上开设了一个账号。起初是发一些插花的照片，后来订花的单子暴涨，井柏然也来下过单。很多东方人常常羞于表达自己的情感，用花来表达的话，相对来说容易一些。爱的定义其实挺复杂的，它不总是关于幸福、美好，花也可以代表着伤感、苦涩，它饱含着很多错综复杂的情绪。

你什么时候决定离开你的上一份工作，开始专注在野兽派事业上的？那时内心会有些忐忑吗？

差不多是创立野兽派的六个月以后。当时是新年，我人在巴黎出差，突然接到办公室打来的电话说客服部集体辞职了。因为情人节就快到了，大家担心2月14号的时候爆单，根本做不过来。那个时候我才开始意识到，真的得把它当成一项事业去全身心投入。

在创业过程中，你觉得最具挑战的部分是什么？

挑战在于找到合适的员工。他们得有专业素养和野兽派风格相符的好品味，对世界充满好奇和探索精神。不过挺有意思的是，有时候来面试的人看起来光鲜亮丽，品位也挺好的，但渐渐地他们就各自离开了。当面试的人看起来比较朴素但对野兽派有很大热忱，反而往往会成长得很快速，并和野兽派一路走下去。

野兽派在上海新天地首次推出了时髦概念小商店Little B，它的客群是怎样的？

当中国女性超过40岁时，并不意味着她们放弃了追求新鲜事物的权利。Little B就是为了中国现代女性而打造的。无论她正处于什么年龄都可以在Little B找到自己的心水之物。如果要具体描绘Little B的客群画像，我认为她们是这样一群中国职业女性—她们像很多西方的职业女性那样能很好地平衡生活和工作。她们热爱自己的工作，热衷于旅行、阅读、自我发展、追求生活方式，对世界充满好奇。家庭主妇是这样，应该说中国现代女性基本都这样，很难用年龄去硬性区分她们。

你有崇拜的女性导师吗？

当然！Anita Lal，她是我在印度的朋友，现在已经60多岁了。她以前是个家庭主妇，十几年前在印度开了类似野兽派的品牌，叫Good Earth，我们经常聚在一起谈生意经。她的公司特别神奇—所有的高级管理人员都是女性，男人都坐在地上绣花！

Tan Zhuo
谭卓

Event director, Design Shanghai
设计上海展会总监

Tan Zhuo is the event director of Asia's leading international design festival, Design Shanghai, an annual celebration that features many of the stars of China's creative scene and receives around 70,000 visitors. Design Shanghai has collaborated with XINTIANDI in presenting Design Shanghai@XINTIANDI since 2016.

谭卓是设计上海的展会总监。设计上海是亚洲首屈一指的国际性设计盛事，展示国际上最佳设计品牌和中国最具影响力的设计力量，每年吸引近7万人参观展览。自2016年开始，设计上海就与新天地合作呈现设计上海@新天地设计节。

“I would love to show everyone something brand new– something they've never seen before.

我希望向公众展现那些前所未有、令人耳目一新的展品。”

What does your role as the event director of Design Shanghai mean?

My role includes finding the right exhibitors, finding suitable sponsors and working with the operational, logistics and marketing teams. I'm in charge of managing the whole show from start to execution to finish. It takes 12 months to put together!

The 2018 Design Shanghai in March, how did it go?

Very well. It was our fifth anniversary and it was the biggest Design Shanghai show yet. We actually ended up building the biggest tent in Chinese exhibition history.

What do you think is the key to running a brilliant design festival? What do you want the customers to get from it?

I would love to show everyone something brand new, something they've never seen before. Events or exhibitions are a great place to meet really interesting people, to learn new things, and see things you wouldn't see anywhere else. I really want to make sure we have beautiful cafés, bars, places for people to sit and relax with lots of amazing components including seminars and workshops. It's a trade event so designers come to do business and learn and meet new people, but it's also a massive social event in our industry.

Has design always been an integral in your life?

I started drawing and painting when I was very little, but I actually studied business. I've always loved art and design – it's always been a personal hobby of mine. I go to a lot of exhibitions and galleries. My job is perfect because I can work in the sector I love, but also utilise my strengths as a businesswoman.

Is there much of a feminist movement in China's design world, and do you feel there is an increasing number of women in design?

Yes, there are a couple of female players in the industry trying to make noise. There will be more and more women entering the design world because the pool is getting bigger so more female designers come out of it.”

作为设计上海的展会总监，你的角色主要是什么？

我的职责包括寻找合适的参展商、赞助商并且与运营、物流和营销团队协力促成展会的顺利开幕。我负责管理整个展会—从筹备到执行再到完成，整个过程需要整整12个月！

最近的一次展出在今年3月，整体表现如何？

展会非常成功，今年是我们的五周年庆典，也是设计上海迄今最大的展览，更搭建了中国展览史上最大的帐篷展区。

你认为举办一个精彩设计节的关键是什么？你希望参观者从中获得什么？

我希望向公众展现那些前所未有、令人耳目一新的展品。参加这样的活动或展览，你可以遇见很多特别有趣的人，发掘一些新鲜事物或者饱览你在别的地方看不到的东西。我希望人们能够在展会期间，在我们精心筹划的咖啡吧、酒吧、沙龙区域小坐休憩或者参与展会的论坛和工作坊。设计上海也是一个专业级的交易展会，建筑师、设计师等各行各业都会在这里寻求商业机会和互动交流，也算是行业内的的一场社交盛事。

设计始终是你人生很重要的一部分吗？

我从很小的时候就开始绘画，但是我的专业是商业管理。艺术与设计一直是我个人的爱好，我也常常逛画廊，看各种展览。我觉得我的工作特别完美，让我可以在我喜欢的领域里工作，同时也很好地发挥了我女性管理者的优势。

中国设计界女性力量是否正在崛起？女性设计师的人数在不断增长吗？

是的，有不在少数的女性设计师在圈内颇有声望。中国的设计行业正在蓬勃发展，我相信会有越来越多的女性加入设计师行列并成为中坚力量。

Magda Dansyz

Gallery director
画廊总监

Magda Dansyz heads up three galleries – in London, Paris and Shanghai– that represent some of the most exciting, diverse, and often slightly alternative talents from those cities. In 2014, French street artist JR – who Magda represents – created a memorable installation for which he plastered XINTIANDI with black and white portraits of its residents.

Magda Dansyz在伦敦、巴黎和上海运营着三间画廊，她代理着这些城市中最具发展潜力和多元背景的先锋艺术家们。在2014年，Magda所代理的法国街头艺术家JR在上海新天地发起了一个令人记忆犹新的公共艺术项目—INSIDE OUT “万像人间”—将当地民众的黑白波点肖像张贴在上海新天地区域内。

“Always be ready for surprises. You never know what's around the corner.

随时准备拥抱惊喜，你永远不知道未来将会是怎样。”

You launched a career in the art world at such a young age. Why start so early?

I started at 17 and everything I did at the beginning was quite spontaneous and instinctive. I'm the daughter of an artist and a mathematician, which must have helped in some way. Back then I knew I wanted to own a gallery or be involved in the art world in some way when I grew up, so I was like,“Why not just start now?” I knew nothing about the business and it was a tough learning curve, but it evolved little by little.

What's the biggest change you would like to see in the art world in the next 10 years?

It's related to an email exchange I just had with another woman who is gallerist, complaining about the art world being a big boys club. I ended up complimenting her on singling out the need for more respect. Also, people think everyone in the art world is in it for the money, when actually we are all here to keep the flame going in our society. Of course we need a lot of money to finance projects, some of them are crazy expensive. But good artists are entitled to a good life, and never forget that not all of them make it. Not everyone is Jeff Koons. I would also like there to be more respect in the art world for the hard work that is done by the gallery owners, art critics and everyone else behind the scenes.

Whats the most important thing you've learned?

You never know what's next. People ask me who the next big artist is and I don't really know what that question even means. So I think always be ready for surprises. You never know what's around the corner.

Do people always ask you that question?

Who's the next big thing? Of course! And I'm like,“I have no idea!” But I like it that way.

你在这么年轻的年纪就已经在艺术界经营着自己的事业，你是怎么开始的呢？

我17岁就开始在艺术圈闯荡，刚开始全凭着自己的感觉和直觉做事。我父母一位是艺术家一位是数学家，这样的成长背景对我影响挺深远的。当时我就立志长大后要拥有一间自己的画廊，或者投身艺术界的其他职业，但转念一想“为什么不现在就开始呢？”。最初我对这个行业一无所知，这是一个漫长而艰辛的学习过程，但总算是一点一点积累发展起来了。

在未来的十年间，你最希望看到艺术世界有什么样的变化？

这个问题让我想到了最近另一位女画廊主发给我的一封邮件，她在来信中跟我抱怨艺术圈已经变成了画廊巨头们的俱乐部了，后来我对她敢于发声寻求平等尊重的态度表示了赞赏。大家总认为每个艺术圈从业人员都在追逐利益，而其实我们都是在这里维系艺术的独立话语权。当然艺术项目需要很多资金扶持，有些金额简直是天文数字。但优秀的艺术家有权利享受美好的生活，也请不要忘记并非每个人都能做到，不是每个人都能成为Jeff Koons。我也希望未来所有画廊主、艺评人以及幕后人员的辛苦劳作能获得更多的尊重。

你学到的最重要的东西是什么?

对未知的期待吧。别人问我谁是下一个大艺术家，这问题没什么意义。所以应该准备随时拥抱惊喜，你永远不知道未来将会是怎么样。

大家会经常问你这个问题吗？谁是下一个大人物？

当然！我就说“那我哪知道啊！”，我觉得这样也挺有趣的。

Linda Wang

Founder, Mr Choi Patisserie

蔡嘉法式甜品创始人

Linda Wang is the brains behind Mr Choi, a charming, wildly popular French-style patisserie offering delectable sweet and savoury treats, nestled in the heart of XINTIANDI.

Linda Wang是蔡嘉法式甜品的主理人，坐落于新天地新里的蔡嘉是一家广受好评的精致法式甜品店，它主打的甜味和咸味点心为往来的顾客带来独特的味觉享受。

“Usually there are two scenarios that bring customers happiness: delicious food and sincere friendship.

有两种东西能给人带来幸福感：美味的食物和真挚的友谊。”

What is the secret to excellent pastry?

I firmly believe that ingredients and quality control are instrumental to creating excellent pastry. High quality ingredients and a precise process are key. First and foremost, you should never disappoint your customers, and you should be putting all of your effort into bringing them happiness and joy.

Why do you think eating together is important?

Usually there are two scenarios that bring customers happiness: delicious food and sincere friendship. I believe it is very important that happiness should be shared between people.

What do you look for when hiring chefs and a team to work around you?

Loyalty and utmost effort. Technique can be learnt, but a person's moral fibre can not be.

Food aside, what do you look for in a dining experience?

In my opinion, who you eat with is more important than what you eat. Therefore I'd say that the key to a spectacular dining experience would be to eat together with your loved ones at a restaurant you all adore.

Why do you think there is a lack of female chefs in the world, and what change would you like to see to combat that?

In my opinion there is no need to go out of your way to stress and emphasise gender equality in every field of work, and I have also never been particularly opposed to the dominance of the male or the female in different industries. Actually my own team, who work with cuisine and pastry, consist of over 80% female chefs.

What is the biggest challenge you have come up against in your career?

The biggest challenge is always your next step. I don't particularly like to dwell on the past, but I always look forward to bettering and strengthening myself through uncertain territories and the unknown.

你认为制作一流甜品的秘诀是什么？

我坚信对原材料和出品质量把控是制作出一流甜点的重中之重。这就要求原材料的品质一定要高，制作的过程也需要一丝不苟的精密。甜点本来就应该给人带来愉悦和幸福感，所以永远不应该让你的客户失望。

你为什么觉得一起分享甜点很重要？

通常，有两种东西能给人带来幸福感：美味的食物和真挚的友谊。人和人可以通过食物传递、分享彼此的幸福感。

你聘用厨师或者团队的时候，你都会看中一些什么特质？

忠诚度和用功程度吧，技巧可以通过学习获得，但一个人的道德品质却很难培养。

抛开食物本身的话，你会在一次就餐体验中寻求什么？

在我看来，和谁一起吃比吃什么更重要。如果和我爱的人们在我们彼此都心仪的餐厅里一起享用美食，我觉得这就挺开心的。

你觉得现在缺少女性厨师吗？在行业性别比例中你希望看到怎样的改变？

在我看来，没有必要在每一个工作领域去突出强调性别问题，每个人都努力做到最好才最重要。而且我也从来不会特别反对不同行业中男性或女性的主导地位。就我自己团队来说吧，餐饮加甜点，有80%都是女性成员。

在你在的职业生涯遇到过的最大挑战是什么？

最大的挑战始终是你的下一步。我不太喜欢沉浸在过去发生了什么，我更期待通过不确定和未知的领域来改善和提升自己。

Sara Kim

Founder, Monday Edition

Monday Edition创始人

Sara Kim is the founder of Monday Edition, a hip jewellery brand based in South Korea which in 2018 collaborated with XINTIANDI as a curator for the pop-up Social House.

Sara Kim是来自韩国的精品珠宝品牌Monday Edition的创始人，她还曾以策展人的身份，与新天地共同呈现了第一季Social House快闪店。

“Whether you're designing or consuming, keeping an aspect of“fun” makes fashion consistently different and new.

无论是站在设计还是消费的角度，我觉得在心态上保有一些“趣味”会让你的时尚态度保持先锋性，也更与众不同。”

What is the story of the birth of Monday Edition?

Before I launched Monday Edition I was working as an art director at a fashion advertising agency. I came across many brands during my time there, and dreamed of one day being able to make my own. Then, one day, a close friend and I had a conversation about the charming nature of jewellery. At that moment an idea sprung to mind. It was like fate. After that I immediately started studying jewellery, and Monday Edition was born.

What should good jewellery do?

Jewellery should be beautiful! Elements of experimental and unique aspects of the design are good too, but in the end I think good jewellery should show a balanced and elegant beauty.

What jewellery do you wear every day?

I wear jewellery that matches whatever style I'm wearing. I usually wear comfortable clothes, but I pair outfits with bold earrings and fancy shoes. When I wear fancy clothes I prefer to go with more simple jewellery styles.

Why do you think retaining a level of fun is important in the world of fashion?

Without knowing it, we spend our lives connected to fashion and style. I can't imagine how boring life would be if those things were always the same and never changing. We can't ignore the “fun”element in fashion because we're always pursuing something different and I think whether you're designing or consuming, retaining an aspect of “fun”in your attitude makes fashion consistently different and new.

What is the thing about Monday Edition that makes you really, really happy?

When I meet people and customers who say they've been a big fan of Monday Edition for a long time it makes me so happy. It ends up making me even more passionate about design.

Monday Edition的创立背后有什么故事吗？

在创立Monday Edition之前，我在一家时尚广告公司担任艺术总监。那段时间我接触了许多的品牌，也想着日后可以创立自己的品牌。后来有一天，我和一位特别要好的朋友正谈着珠宝的自然之美。那一瞬间，我脑中突然闪现创立品牌的想法，有点命中注定的感觉。随后我就马上投入到珠宝设计的学习中了，Monday Edition就这样应运而生的。

你眼中的珠宝是怎样的呢？

珠宝就应该是美的！从设计的角度看，实验性或者剑走偏锋的设计也挺棒的，但是好的珠宝最终展现的是一种优雅平衡之美。

你会佩戴怎样的珠宝？

我会根据我当天的穿衣风格搭配合适的饰品。我通常会穿着比较舒适的服饰，所以会搭配式样大胆的耳环和抢眼的鞋子。如果哪天我穿着比较华丽，我就会选择一些款式简洁一些的做混搭。

你觉得在时尚圈保持一定程度的“有趣”很重要吗？为什么？

我们的生活和时尚息息相关，无法想象如果一切一尘不变会有多么无趣。我们都在追求某种让自己显得不一样的特质，所以我们需要这种“有趣”。无论是站在设计还是消费的角度，我觉得在心态上保有一些“趣味”会让你的时尚态度保持先锋性，也更与众不同。

创立Monday Edition带给你最开心的事是什么？

每当我遇到那些说自己一直是Monday Edition粉丝的顾客，我会特别感动和高兴。他们的鼓励让我对设计变得更富有激情。